The third tasting of wines from the cellar of the late Carole Goldberg, for London
Branch members at the Army and Navy Club in Mayfair, was led by Rachel Burnett, with grateful thanks to Roger Ellis who had inherited much of her extensive, but somewhat eccentric, wine collection, and who supplied the wines.
We were aware that until we opened the bottle, we would not know how well these wines had stood the test of time, and that we were taking a journey of discovery. Indeed one or two of them had not lasted well. But we also enjoyed the opportunity of tasting some exceptional gems at the optimum time.
Domaine Les Fines Graves Beaujolais-Villages Jacky Janodet 2010
The late Jacky Janodet was known as an artisan producer of first class Cru Beaujolais, practising sustainable farming, with a high percentage of old vines, averaging forty years of age, grown on sandy soil. Today the domaine is run by his widow Evelyn and their son, Jérôme. Cru Beaujolais ages faster than most other wines, although the best examples may be cellared for five years, and a good cru for up to several years longer. 2010 was a classic year. This wine was predictably past its peak, but nevertheless drinkable.
Château Siran Saint-Jacques de Siran, Bordeaux Supérieure, 2009
This is one of the top estates in Margaux. This wine is from a special 11-hectare parcel just outside the Margaux appellation, the terroir here being clay topsoil over the sandy gravel subsoil. 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot /Cabernet Franc. The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux was brilliant, a particularly ripe year resulting in concentrated, alcoholic wines, full of ripe fruit & tannins. Tasting well.
Domaines Rollan de By, La Demoiselle de By, Médoc, 2009
This is the second wine of Chateau Rollan de By. 60% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot 20% Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc. Clay terroir with outcrops of gravel. Aged for twelve months in 20% American, 30% new French & 50% one year old oak barrels. However, the tannins were drying and about to take over any fruit.
Chateau Labegorce-Zédé, Margaux, 2003
Cabernet Sauvignon: 50%, Merlot: 35%, Cabernet Franc: 10%, Petit Verdot: 5%. Gravel and clay terroir. 2003 was the hottest vintage in Bordeaux until then. The grapes were picked earlier than almost ever before. The levels of sugar, and therefore resulting alcohol, reached record levels, and the tannin levels were relatively high. Many of the grapes shrivelled on the vine, missing the normal ripening process. The wines often lacked freshness and fruit. Successful wines were intense and complex. But often, the wines could taste overcooked, lacking freshness and fruit. This wine was tasting reasonably well, although like most of this vintage, beyond its prime.
Clos du Clocher Pomerol 2005
Clos du Clocher’s largest plot is found on the top quality Pomerol plateau, in the centre of Pomerol on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. The terroir is clay, gravel and sand soils on slopes reaching up to 30 metres. 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. 2005 is one of Clos du Clocher’s best vintages. This wine was mature, sophisticated and appealing, with velvety opulence and length.
Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2003
The Guigal family are one of the best producers in the Rhône. 50% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 25% Syrah from 35 year old vines aged for a year in oak casks. 2003 was a very hot summer in the Rhône, and as in Bordeaux, the vintage lacks consistency. Côtes du Rhône covers much of the Rhône Valley, a geologically diverse area with a wide range of mesoclimates, soils and grape varieties. It is one of the largest single appellation regions in the world. Côtes du Rhône wines are for drinking on release, and this wine was, not unexpectedly, over the hill.
Hermitage la Chapelle Jaboulet 1997
100% Syrah. La Chapelle has the reputation of being one of the world’s best wines for cellaring. 1997 was a special vintage in the Northern Rhône. The wines from the finest vintages can age thirty years and more, starting to drink well only from about twenty years. The 1961 Jaboulet La Chapelle is a wine legend. Consequently we had high expectations for this wine, but they were not met by the wine, or at least this particular bottle, although it was very acceptable. It is possibly worth noting that this 1997 vintage dates from the time between Gérard Jaboulet’s retirement, and death in 1995, and a new winemaker taking over in 1998. Top of Form.
Domaine du Château Gris Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru 2002
Chateau Gris is a small vineyard with a steep slope on the higher slopes of the Côte d’Or, facing East, so exposed to sunlight for the grapes to ripen, despite being one of the most elevated and northerly sites in the area. It is unusually in Burgundy a terraced site, to make it easier to work.
The soil is clay and rocky small limestone rocks covering a hard layer of limestone. The vines are an average age of over forty years. 100% Pinot Noir. 2002 was proclaimed as a very good year. From Nuits-Saint-Georges the red wines have. This wine had a structured, mineral, elegant style with integrated oak which did not overpower the fruit, and was a pleasure to drink.
“Le Petit Mouton” Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac AOC 2005
This is Chateau Mouton Rothschild’s second wine. A terroir of deep gravel and practically no clay. Some old vines. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Cabernet Franc 20% Merlot. 2005 is one of Chateau Mouton Rothschild’s, and Pauillac’s, best vintages. This was a lovely wine, ready now and would continue to evolve for drinking over the next decade and longer. Expressive and substantial, powerful, firm tannins, structured and balanced.
Rachel Burnett