Greek Wines | International Wine & Food Society, London Branch

THE HISTORY AND HERITAGE OF GREEK WINE: A DIVINE LEGACY

The story of Greek wine is deeply intertwined with the myths, legends, and rituals surrounding Dionysus, the god of wine and celebration in ancient Greek mythology. This divine connection has left an indelible mark on the history and heritage of Greek winemaking.

The Birth of Dionysus

The tale begins with Dionysus himself, born of the union between Zeus, the king of the gods, and Semele, a mortal princess. Semele’s tragic demise and Dionysus’s miraculous birth from Zeus’s thigh imbued him with a dual nature—both mortal and divine. This extraordinary origin underscored the idea that wine, too, had the power to transform and elevate the human experience.

Dionysus: The Patron of Wine

Dionysus assumed his role as the patron of wine, celebration, and ecstatic revelry, endowing wine with spiritual significance. He became the embodiment of the joyous and liberating aspects of life, inspiring an enduring love for wine among the ancient Greeks.

Wine as Divine Nectar

The Greeks believed that wine was a gift from the gods, and Dionysus was its ultimate bestower. Wine was seen as a sacred beverage, often referred to as “the divine nectar.” Its consumption was not merely a physical act but a pathway to spiritual communion and artistic inspiration. The symposium, a Greek social institution centered around wine, intellectual discourse, and music, was a testament to this belief.

Viticulture and Winemaking

Greek winemaking flourished in regions like Thrace, Crete, and the islands. The Greeks introduced innovative techniques like pruning and trellising, enhancing grape cultivation. Amphorae, ceramic vessels with intricate designs, were used to store and transport wine. The art of blending different grape varieties to achieve desired flavors was also a Greek innovation.

The Spread of Greek Wine

Greek wine was not confined to Greece itself; it was exported throughout the Mediterranean. Colonies established by the Greeks, such as those in Southern Italy and Sicily, played a pivotal role in spreading viticultural knowledge and Greek wine culture.

GREEK WINE REGIONS: A JOURNEY THROUGH HISTORY

Peloponnese

Nemea: Known for its robust red wines, Nemea is a region in the northeastern part of the Peloponnese. It’s home to the Agiorgitiko grape, which produces wines with rich berry flavors and a hint of spice. Nemea is also famous for the Nemean Games, ancient athletic competitions, and the cult of Hercules.

Mantinia: Situated in the Arcadia region, Mantinia is renowned for its white wines made from the Moschofilero grape. These wines are known for their vibrant acidity, floral aromas, and notes of citrus and stone fruits.

Mainland Greece

Attica: This region encompasses the capital, Athens, and the surrounding area. It’s where you’ll find the famous Retsina wine, a white or rosé wine flavored with pine resin. While Retsina is an acquired taste, Attica also produces some excellent non-resinated wines, including Savatiano whites.

Macedonia

Naoussa: Located in Macedonia, northern Greece, Naoussa is the heart of Xinomavro production. Xinomavro is a red grape variety known for its high acidity, tannins, and aging potential. Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines often display flavors of dark fruits, spices, and earthy notes.

Thessaly

Rapsani: Nestled on the slopes of Mount Olympus, Rapsani is another Xinomavro hotspot. The grape thrives in the region’s high-altitude vineyards, resulting in wines with complexity and elegance. Rapsani wines are typically blends of Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto grapes.

The Islands

Santorini: This volcanic island in the Cyclades is famous for its Assyrtiko grape. The unique volcanic soil and climate conditions produce crisp, mineral-driven white wines with remarkable acidity. Santorini’s vineyards, trained into distinctive basket-shaped formations called “koulara,” are a sight to behold.

Crete: Greece’s largest island is a mosaic of microclimates and diverse grape varieties. The island produces a wide range of wines, including the fruity and aromatic Vidiano whites and the red, herbaceous Liatiko wines.

Samos: Known for its Muscat-based dessert wines, Samos produces some of Greece’s most renowned sweet wines. The Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grape thrives on the island’s terraced vineyards, producing wines with intense floral and citrus aromas.

Viticulture: The Art of Grape Cultivation

Terroir Selection: Greek winemakers pay meticulous attention to terroir—the combination of soil, climate, and topography. Each region’s unique terroir determines which grape varieties thrive there. For example, the volcanic soils of Santorini are ideal for Assyrtiko, while the high altitudes of Naoussa suit Xinomavro.
Vineyard Management: Traditional techniques like “kouloura” (basket-shaped vines) on Santorini or “gobelet” pruning in other regions are used to protect vines from harsh winds and the scorching sun. Sustainable and organic practices are increasingly common in modern Greek viticulture.

Harvesting: Timing is Everything

Hand Harvesting: Many Greek winemakers prefer hand harvesting to ensure the careful selection of grapes at their peak ripeness. This labor-intensive method allows for the gentle handling of the fruit.
Night Harvest: In hot climates like Greece, some winemakers harvest grapes during the cool nighttime hours to preserve their freshness and acidity.

Winemaking: Crafting the Wines

Traditional Fermentation: In some regions, grapes are still foot-trodden in shallow stone tanks called “lagares.” This ancient method is employed to extract juice and ferment red grapes.
Stainless Steel Fermentation: Modern winemaking often involves temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. This method allows for precise control of fermentation temperature, preserving the delicate aromas of white grapes like Assyrtiko and Moschofilero.
Barrel Aging: Oak barrels, both French and American, are used for aging red wines, adding complexity and subtle oak flavors. Some regions, like Nemea, are known for their oak-aged Agiorgitiko wines.
Amphorae: An ancient technique making a comeback is the use of clay amphorae for fermentation and aging. This method provides a unique flavor profile, particularly for natural and orange wines.

Modern Innovations

Temperature Control: Modern wineries employ temperature-controlled fermentation and storage facilities to maintain the desired conditions throughout the winemaking process.
Modern Equipment: Advances in winemaking technology, such as pneumatic presses and optical sorters, ensure precise grape handling and sorting.
Sustainability: Many Greek wineries prioritize sustainable practices, such as organic and biodynamic viticulture, to preserve the environment and produce high-quality wines.

Blending and Aging

Blending: Greek winemakers often blend different grape varieties to achieve balance and complexity. For instance, Naoussa wines may blend Xinomavro with Krassato and Stavroto grapes.
Aging: Wines may be aged in various containers, from oak barrels to stainless steel tanks, depending on the desired style. Some Greek reds benefit from extended bottle aging to soften tannins and develop tertiary aromas.

Notable Greek Wineries and Producers

Greek winemakers have garnered international acclaim for their dedication to quality and innovation:

Domaine Skouras: Founded by George Skouras, this winery is celebrated for its elegant red wines from the Peloponnese.

Ktima Gerovassiliou: Evangelos Gerovassiliou has been a pioneer in reviving ancient grape varieties and crafting exceptional wines in Thessaloniki.

Santo Wines: Located in Santorini, Santo Wines is a cooperative of local producers, known for its Assyrtiko wines and breathtaking views.

Alpha Estate: Situated in Macedonia, Alpha Estate has gained recognition for its modern winemaking techniques and its exceptional Xinomavro wines.

Assyrtiko from Santorini: Often hailed as Greece’s finest white grape, Assyrtiko thrives in the volcanic soil of Santorini. The wines it produces are bone-dry, crisp, and bursting with mineral notes. Look for expressions from wineries like Santo Wines and Gaia.

Malagousia: Rescued from near-extinction, Malagousia is a fragrant white grape with an aromatic profile reminiscent of peach, citrus, and exotic fruits. A standout example is the Alpha Estate Malagousia.

Moschofilero: This pink-skinned grape from the Peloponnese produces wines with floral and citrusy aromas. Tselepos and Boutari are renowned producers of Moschofilero wines.

Robola from Cephalonia: Robola is a rare grape variety native to Cephalonia. Wines made from Robola are characterized by their high acidity and mineral complexity. Domaine Foivos and Gentilini craft exceptional Robola wines.

Vidiano from Crete: Vidiano is Crete’s hidden gem, producing aromatic and well-structured white wines. Douloufakis and Lyrarakis are esteemed Vidiano producers.

Best Greek Red Wines

Xinomavro from Naoussa: Xinomavro is often compared to Nebbiolo for its bold tannins and aging potential. In Naoussa, Domaine Karydas and Kir-Yianni are acclaimed producers of Xinomavro wines.

Agiorgitiko from Nemea: Known as the “Blood of Hercules,” Agiorgitiko yields smooth and fruity red wines with a medium to full body. Gaia Estate and Skouras are celebrated for their Nemean reds.

Mavrodaphne from Patras: Mavrodaphne produces sweet and fortified wines with rich, dark fruit flavors. The Mavrodaphne of Patras from Achaia Clauss is an iconic example.

Limnio: Limnio is one of Greece’s oldest grape varieties, producing medium-bodied red wines with flavors of red berries and spice. Try Limnio wines from producers like Ktima Kir-Yianni.

Kotsifali and Mandilaria Blend: In Crete, a blend of Kotsifali and Mandilaria grapes creates bold and robust red wines. Diamantakis and Domaine Paterianakis are noted producers.

Gaia Wines: Gaia Wines, located both in Santorini and Nemea, is known for its innovative winemaking techniques. Their Assyrtiko wines from Santorini are highly regarded, with “Thalassitis” being a flagship expression.

Santo Wines: Situated on the breathtaking island of Santorini, Santo Wines is a cooperative of local producers. They are renowned for their Assyrtiko wines, offering a range from crisp and mineral-driven to oak-aged and complex.
Alpha Estate: Located in the northern region of Macedonia, Alpha Estate combines modern winemaking techniques with indigenous grape varieties. Their Xinomavro-based reds, especially “Xinomavro Reserve,” have received critical acclaim.
Ktima Gerovassiliou:Evangelos Gerovassiliou is a pioneer in reviving ancient Greek grape varieties and crafting exceptional wines. His Malagousiaand Viognier whites are celebrated for their aromatic complexity.Which Greek wine pairs best with seafood?

Assyrtiko, with its crisp acidity and mineral notes, is an excellent choice for seafood pairing.

Are Greek wines suitable for aging?

Yes, some Greek red wines, especially those made from Xinomavro, have excellent aging potential.

Decanter

2024 – one of the most exciting stories is the ascendency of Greek wines. It isn’t going too far to say that, in 2024, Greece really is the word.

The results tally in, Greece laid claim to 296 medals, including two Platinums, 11 Golds and 111 Silvers. The really big story, though, is that a Greek retsina wine won a prestigious Best in Show, one of only 50 awarded this year, and making up just 0.28% of the 18,143 wines evaluated.

Wines made from the Assyrtiko grape – particularly those from the tiny, windswept island of Santorini from which this grape originates – won particular plaudits from judges.

Two standouts (Gavalas Winery, Natural Ferment, Santorini 2022 and Tselepos Canava Chrissou Vielles Vignes, Santorini 2021) claimed Platinum, both awarded 97 points.

Additionally, two Santorini wines from Estate Argyros – the lightly oaked Cuvée Evdemon 2020 and stainless-steel vinified Assyrtiko 2022 – were awarded Golds, with 96 and 95 points respectively.

(Gavalas Winery, Natural Ferment, Santorini 2022 and Tselepos Canava Chrissou Vielles Vignes, Santorini 2021) claimed Platinum, both awarded 97 points.

Additionally, two Santorini wines from Estate Argyros – the lightly oaked Cuvée Evdemon 2020 and stainless-steel vinified Assyrtiko 2022 – were awarded Golds, with 96 and 95 points respectively.

On this Aegean island, grapevines are typically grown low to the ground in nest-like, basket-shaped koulouras, their roots thrusting deep into the volcanic soil in search of moisture during the long, dry summers.

Assyrtiko grown on the island is low-yielding, resulting in wines with concentration and intensity; a characteristic lick of briny-fresh salinity and razor-sharp acidity makes them as food friendly as they are vividly flavoured. It’s little wonder that Santorini Assyrtiko has gained such a following.des

Characteristics: Assyrtiko is Greece’s most celebrated white grape variety. Grown primarily on the volcanic island of Santorini, it thrives in the harsh, arid climate. Assyrtiko wines are renowned for their high acidity, mineral notes, and crisp citrus flavors. They are often bone-dry and incredibly refreshing, making them ideal for pairing with seafood.

Xinomavro

Origin: Northern Greece

Characteristics: Xinomavro is often referred to as Greece’s answer to Nebbiolo. This red grape variety produces wines with high acidity, substantial tannins, and impressive aging potential. Its flavor profile includes notes of red fruit, spices, and hints of tomato and olive. Xinomavro is the star grape of the Naoussa and Rapsani regions.

Agiorgitiko

Origin: Nemea, Peloponnese

Characteristics: Agiorgitiko, also known as St. George, is a versatile red grape. It can range from light and fruity to bold and structured, depending on the winemaking approach. Common flavors include cherry, plum, and sometimes a hint of spice. Nemea, where Agiorgitiko thrives, is renowned for its red wines.

Moschofilero

Origin: Mantinia, Peloponnese

Characteristics: Moschofilero is a fragrant white grape known for its aromatic and floral qualities. Wines made from Moschofilero are often crisp, with notes of rose petals, citrus, and sometimes a subtle spiciness. This Moschofilero is a refreshing choice for those seeking a white wine with personality.

Entry level assyrtiko from Crete:

Nomas Assyrtiko, Karavitakis 2020 £11.95 bottle 13.5% Now to 2023
Crete Fresh acidity, good weight, excellent example with no oak fermented in stainless steel

Mineral characteristics

Saline finish

Doesn’t overpower the range of flavours in a meze

Some weight, acting like a platform

A wonderfully affordable introduction to Greece’s finest white grape, assyrtiko, showing the grape’s character off in style at a keen price. Clean as a whistle with flavours of citrus, green apple and wet slate, with structured acidity, food-friendly grip and an appetising mineral, salty finish.

Bone dry

The Karavitakis family have owned land and vineyard at Kolymbari near Chania for four generations and have been bottling their own wines for 20 years. They are part of a movement called Wines of Crete, including many other young independent growers, which has challenged the view of some of the older-generation that the old oxidative wines were best. Since 1998 the vineyards have been refurbished, a new winery built and equipped and new varieties planted, and everything is farmed sustainably without the use of chemicals. As well as owning their own vineyards the family also obtain grapes from small estates with which they work closely, sending their own agriculturalist to assure themselves of the quality vineyard management and of the fruit. Nikos Karavitakis is the new generation making wine here and like his father he champions local varieties such as the white, apricot-scented vidiano and red kotsifali and mandilaria varieties. This attention to detail and the forward thinking go arm in arm with the traditional values of the family which means that we are likely to hear more of them.

Xinomavro Naoussea, Ktima Foundi 2016
Nomas Assyrtiko, Karavitakis 2019
Xinomavro Jeunes Vignes, Thymiopoulos 2019

Plakoura Mandilari, Domaine Lyrarakis 2017
Hatzidakis Skitali, Santorini 2017
Mavrotragano, Hatzidakis 2016

Greek Wines today

Greek wine is going through something of a renaissance. Despite having a history of viticulture dating back to roughly 3,000 BC, up until the last 30 years or so, its wine was nothing to shout about. The majority was the product of large co-operatives and drunk by locals or holidaymakers rather than exported across the globe and the pride of Michelin-starred wine list.

One after another, producers stopped shipping off their high-yielding, dilute grapes to the local co-op and started bottling their own wines. Using individual indigenous grape varieties from some of the finest and most diverse terroirs on the planet, the results are a revelation.

And now the next generation are coming through. Sons and daughters that have grown up amongst the vines and in the winery, have travelled and studied abroad, and have returned to take on the family business – and with incredible results.

In a way, Greece should be approached in the same way as Italy: a large country packed with indigenous varieties and terroirs not found anywhere else on earth. The Greeks and Italians have influenced each other when it comes to wine more than many might think, trading varieties (such as aglianico) and techniques for centuries. But most importantly, Greece is a treasure trove of genuine, authentic wine. It’s a part of the country’s history. Just like Italy.

The landscape

Greece is Europe’s third most mountainous country and has over 150 inhabited islands, many of which produce wine. With such little land for agriculture it means vines, which can grow practically anywhere, are exiled to the mountains where they’re forced to dig deep to find nutrients. It’s in these hills, in the poorest of soils, that the finest grapes are grown and are the canvas for Greece’s current fine wine renaissance.

The Greek mainland

The Peloponnese, the peninsula at the southern tip of Greece’s mainland, is home to some of Greece’s most affordable and approachable wines. Nemea, approximately 30km south-west of Corinth, is home to the red agiorgitiko variety. One that manifests itself in multiple guises from charming pinks to intensely sweet dessert wines. But it’s best known for approachable, juicy dry red wines at the more entry-level price bracket (for example the Red on Black from Mitravelas) and full, brooding, spicy and oaky reds at the more premium end (such as the Nemea Grand Cuvée from Skouras or the Mitravelas Ktima 2019). The dark cassis fruit and savoury spice of these more premium agiorgitikos will appeal to lovers of Bordeaux, with the lighter, juicier styles more akin to gamay or mencía.

Located in Macedonia in the north of Greece, Naoussa is home to the xinomavro grape, one that draws more than a few comparisons to pinot noir or nebbiolo. With its bright acidity, pale colour and plentiful tannins it’s easy to see why. For the lighter, softer and easy-drinking styles more akin to pinot noir be sure to check out Apostolos Thymiopoulos’ Jeunes Vignes. For those more on the nebbiolo spectrum the Naoussea from Ktima Foundi offers Barolo-like structure and aromatics at a snip.

Rapsani is found in the foothills of Mount Olympus and the wines are worthy of their Godly location. As in Naoussa, xinomavro is the predominant variety, but is here blended with the darker coloured and fuller-bodied varieties of krasato and stavroto. Expect plush red fruit, tomato-leaf and bramble characters alongside bright acidity, ripe yet structured tannins and warming alcohol. Lovers of Burgundy should check out Apostolos Thymiopoulos’ Rapsani.

Greek Islands

Crete

Greece’s largest (and most southerly) island is arguably also the country’s most exciting wine region. Host to numerous indigenous varieties and a new generation keen to promote them, Crete is sure to deliver something that takes your fancy. The island itself is split east to west by an intimidating mountain range with over 30 peaks stretching more than 1,500m into the sky (Ben Nevis is only 1,343m), with the cooler northern side where the vast majority of viticulture is found. Vidiano is currently the premier white variety, with the rare thrapsathiri (Armi Thrapsathiri, Lyrarakis) and dafni (Psarades Dafni, Lyrarakis) starting to turn heads, as well as the finest example of assyrtiko outside of Santorini we’ve found to date (Nomas Assyrtiko, Karavitakis). For the reds, mandilari leads the charge (Plakoura Mandilari, Lyrarakis) with liatiko (Kompsos Liatiko, Karavitakis) providing juicy red wines full of Mediterranean charm.

Santorini is not only one of the world’s most stunning locations – it’s also home to some of the world’s finest wines. The remnant of a volcanic caldera and the site of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history (the Minoan eruption), its barren landscape and brutal growing conditions (intense wind and minimal rainfall) result in incredibly low yields of intense, high-alcohol, mineral white wines and full-bodied intense reds. Assyrtiko from Santorini is truly one of the wine wonders of the world, with the best showing a full, viscous texture, high alcohol, high acidity and distinctively saline character. Hatzidakis are one of the finest producers on the island and we’d encourage members to start there. Santorini Assyrtiko Cuvée No.15, Hatzidakis 2019 is delicious, but there’s more to Santorini than Assyrtiko with the white Aidani grape (Hatzidakis Aidani) and Mavrotragano (Hatzidakis Mavrotragano) worthy successors to the crown.

Located in the eastern Aegean Sea, Samos is home to some of Greece’s finest sweet wines, made using the aromatic muscat grape. Samos Anthemis is the perfect introduction to the Vin Doux Naturel style that is so popular here.

Kephalonia is, viticulturally, the most important of the Ionian islands thanks to a climate lacking in extremes, predominantly limestone soils, and signature white grape variety, robola. The island itself is steeped in history, although it’s a history which is belied by its sapphire waters and beautiful architecture. The island is the setting for the book Captain Correlli’s Mandolin which documents the massacre of Italian troops by the Germans during the Second World War, and was also the site of a devastating earthquake in 1953 which led to a mass exodus of residents and was so powerful it raised the entire island by 60cm. Thankfully for most it is now a major tourist hub and its wine scene is very much on the rise. Gentilini produce one of Kefalonia’s finest examples of robola.

White/pink varieties

me suggests, assyrtiko is an assertive grape. It’s typically high in acid, high in alcohol (13.5-14.5%), full-bodied, textured and, although not aromatic, is packed full of flavour. Flavours include citrus, stone fruits and a salty/mineral tang when young, developing into apricot, beeswax, toast and lanolin when aged.

The finest assyrtikos are found on the island of Santorini, where the wines have a richness and weight that cannot be replicated elsewhere. Santorini assyrtiko is typically fermented in stainless steel and aged on the yeast lees for 6-18 months to add weight and texture. Some producers use oak to add complexity, whereas some pick as late as possible and then age in oak – these super opulent and rich styles are called nykteri.

Solid examples can be found outside Santorini, but few convey the same intensity and complexity.

Try, if you like: White Rhône (especially roussanne/marsanne-dominant blends), chenin blanc, semillon, grüner veltliner.

An aromatic pink-skinned grape typically vinified as a dry, unoaked white wine. Moschofilero is a major grape in the Peloponnese and is the single permitted variety in the PDO of Mantinia. A wonderfully aromatic variety producing wines typically low/moderate in alcohol (11-12.5%) with high acidity and aromas of rose water, grapefruit, lime, honeysuckle and peach. Delicious as a varietal wine but also adds charm and freshness to cross-regional blends such as The Society’s Greek White where it pairs well with the soft fruit character of roditis.

Try, if you like: muscat, gewürztraminer, viognier, sauvignon blanc, torrontés.

Extremely rare white grape grown on the island of Santorini, where it is often used as a blending partner for the more intense assyrtiko. Aidani produces wines typically medium in body with fresh acidity, with flavours of stone fruits and citrus with a pure minerality quality alongside floral jasmine notes. Typically produced in an unoaked, fresh style but can also produce outstanding sweet vin santo wines.

Few single-variety wines are produced due to the low plantings but Hatzidakis produce a wonderful example that lovers of taut, mineral styles of white Burgundy (such as Puligny-Montrachet) would enjoy.

Well suited to arid conditions, athiri is planted extensively throughout the Aegean and has been for centuries. Athiri tends to be moderate in body and flavour (green fruits such as apples and pears and stone fruits such as peach) with soft acidity and moderate alcohol, making it a great wine to pair with a range of dishes. The finest examples are from PDO Santorini where it’s blended with aidani and assyrtiko, or PDO Rhodes.

One of the rarest but arguably the most distinctive of all of Greece’s grapes. Daphni means ‘laurel’ (also known as bay leaf in the UK) and once you take a sniff it’s easy to see why! Intensely perfumed with notes of laurel, ginger and dried herbs with a typically soft, rounded palate and moderate alcohol. Brought back from the brink of extinction on the island of Crete, daphni is one of Greece’s true emerging varieties and is supposed to age with grace.

‘Kidonitsa’ means quince, so it’s hardly surprising that wines made from this grape have a distinctive quince aroma. Typically aromatic with a soft, round palate, kidonitsa is grown almost exclusively in Laconia in the southern Peloponnese, and is a major part of the sweet wines of PDO Monemvassia-Malvasia.

Malagousia is a grape that personifies Greece’s viticultural journey over the last 30 years: from complete unknown (even near extinction) to recognition as not only one of Greece’s finest white grapes, but also the world’s. With its intense and expressive nose of peach, flowers, herbs and hints of bell pepper and full yet always fresh palate, malagousia is a must-try for those looking to explore Greek wines. Grown throughout much of Greece the current fashion is dry malagousia, often aged in oak which it handles well, but malagousia also produces outstanding sweet wines.

Although lending its name to the Monemvassia-Malvasia PDO, monemvassia the grape is predominantly grown on the Cycladic island of Paros. It’s an integral part of the Paros PDO white wines but can also be blended with the red mandilaria for the PDO red wines. In Monemvassia-Malvasia in Laconia, monemvassia is blended to produce malvasios oenos, a legendary sweet straw wine that graced royal banquets across Europe between the 13th and 19th centuries, a style that’s seeing a resurgence since the PDOs creation in 2010.

Muscat of Alexandria

Grown throughout much of Europe including Italy and Spain, muscat of Alexandria was planted in Greece in the early 20th century due to its resistance to heat. As part of the muscat family it produces wonderfully exotic, floral and grapy white wines and is best on the volcanic soils of Lemnos where it is produced in both sweet (PDO Muscat of Lemnos) and dry (PDO Lemnos) styles.

Robola

Susceptible to disease and high yielding, robola (similar although not the same as Italy’s ribolla gialla) is best suited to barren, mountainous regions of central Greece and the Ionian Islands, especially Kefalonia, where it produces PDO Robola. Prone to oxidation, careful handling is essential, with the majority fermented and aged in stainless steel to preserve freshness. When handled correctly, robola can provide wonderfully fresh and mineral wines not dissimilar to Chablis.

Roditis

Similarly to moschofilero, roditis is a pink-skinned variety typically vinified as a dry white wine. It’s Greece’s most planted variety and lends itself to the PDO wines of Patras, Slopes of Meliton and Anchilaos whites, as well as numerous PGI wines. At high yields and in the wrong hands it can be flabby and watery, but in the right hands at low yields roditis can be structured, mineral and full of citrus fruits. It’s a key grape in the production of Retsina, and we think it provides the perfect foil to moschofilero in our Society’s Greek White, plus it can produce wonderful orange wines.

Thrapsathiri

A rare variety that’s really starting to turn heads, this grape’s highly resistant to drought and so can thrive in even the warmest parts of Crete where it’s native. When yields are restricted it produces wonderfully full, rich, moderate-acid white wines that respond well to oak ageing. Lovers of traditional white Rioja, white Rhône blends or warmer-climate chardonnay should try Lyrarakis’ Armi Thrapsathri.

Qualitatively and quantitatively important white grape on Crete where it produces wines with a full body, moderate acidity and alcohol, and ripe stone-fruit and apple flavours. Introductory examples are soft and charming with clean fruit, with the best picked at low yields and aged in oak and/or amphorae giving rich, generous white wines which can age well.

Barrel-fermented and aged thrapsathiri from Crete, a rare variety that’s starting to turn heads. Flavours of peach, melon and nutmeg are complemented by the textured, nutty palate. Not disimilar to chardonnay or white rioja in style and a great food wine.

Lovers of traditional white Rioja, white Rhône blends or warmer-climate chardonnay should try Armi Thrapsathiri, Domaine Lyrarakis 2020

Vidiano

Dry Alcohol Level: 12.5% | Drink Dates: Now to 2024 £: 14.50 / Bottle |

Red varieties

Rare varieties

Kotsifali

Predominantly found on the Island of Crete, kotsifali is a classic ‘Mediterranean’ red – typically high in alcohol, full-bodied and packed with spice and herb character. Despite this it’s often very pale in colour and can brown easily and, although varietal wines are made, kotsifali is typically blended with darker grapes such as syrah or mandelaria.

Liatiko

The finest red grape of Crete, liatiko’s thin skins result in pale-coloured wines that are reminiscent of pinot noir on steroids. Aromatic with cherry, strawberry and redcurrant notes moving to savoury mushroom and forest floor with a bit of age. The majority of Cretan liatiko is sweet, but more and more dry versions are being produced with great success. Karavitakis’ ‘Kompsos’ is a beautiful example.

Limnio

Limnio is an ancient grape variety that’s mentioned by some of Greece’s most famous writers, including Homer and Hesiod. Believed to have originated in Lemnos the majority of Limnio is grown in the Slopes of Meliton PDO in Thrace, northern Greece.

Limniona

A rising star of the Cretan wine scene and one seen by many as the future of red wine on the island. In style it’s similar to gamay or mencía, offering deeply coloured, supple yet spicy red wines that are filled with juicy red-berry fruit and a peppery finish. Expect great things from limniona in the years to come. Domaine Zafeirakis’ ‘New Age’ limniona is a wonderful starting point.

Mandelaria

Found across Greece but rarely as a single variety, mandelaria is a free spirit of a grape, with a wild, untameable nature that takes a skilled hand to reign in. It produces typically dark, dense, ripe, spicy and savoury red wines not dissimilar to those of southern Italy. The finest varietal expressions typically come from Crete, and most need at least six months in barrel and a few years in bottle before becoming approachable. Lyrarakis’ Plakoura Mandelari is earning plenty of praise.

Mavrodaphne

The most important red grape on the island of Kefalonia, mavrodaphne is producing some of Greece’s most exciting dry red wines. However, the two PDOs which bear its name – Mavrodaphne of Patras and Mavrodaphne of Kefalonia – only permit sweet wines, so any dry wines from this grape cannot show its name on the label. One to keep an eye on in the future.

Mavrotragano

Santorini’s signature red grape, mavrotragano produces pale but incredibly powerful and intense red wines filled with spices, coffee and bramble fruits. Yields are naturally restricted and a strong affinity to oak means the wines can age wonderfully. A truly unique grape that has huge potential.

Negoska

Believed to have originated in Naoussa, negoska is most widely planted in Goumenissa in Macedonia where it’s often blended with xinomavro to ‘fill-in’ some of the gaps, mainly it is deep in colour, high in sugar, moderate in acidity and low in tannins.

Wines made from the Xinomavro grape in Naoussa, in Macedonia in N Greece.

The grape is acid, pale coloured and has lots of tannins. Wines made from this grape may be light, soft and easy drinking or more aromatic and structured.

Xinomavro Jeunes Vignes, Thymiopoulos 2019

£11.50 bottle

Bright, pure and elegant Greek xinomavro from Naoussa with a wonderful perfume of red fruits, sundried tomato and herbaceous undertones giving great freshness. The 2019 is denser, more structured and, we’re delighted to say, even better than the hugely popular 2018 vintage. Delicious now but will last well.

Xinomavro Naoussea, Ktima Foundi 2016

£14.95 bottle
Ultra traditional Naoussa xinomavro from the Ramnista sub-region, an area famed for wines with high acidity and plenty of tannins that take time to open up. This Greek red is just starting to show its stripes, with sour-cherry, sun-dried tomato and black-olive notes on the structured and mineral palate.

Moschofilero

An aromatic pink-skinned grape typically vinified as a dry, unoaked white wine. Moschofilero is a major grape in the Peloponnese and is the single permitted variety in the PDO of Mantinia. A wonderfully aromatic variety producing wines typically low/moderate in alcohol (11-12.5%) with high acidity and aromas of rose water, grapefruit, lime, honeysuckle and peach. Delicious as a varietal wine but also adds charm and freshness to cross-regional blends such as The Society’s Greek White where it pairs well with the soft fruit character of roditis.

Try, if you like: muscat, gewürztraminer, viognier, sauvignon blanc, torrontés.

Aidani

Athiri

Well suited to arid conditions, athiri is planted extensively throughout the Aegean and has been for centuries. Athiri tends to be moderate in body and flavour (green fruits such as apples and pears and stone fruits such as peach) with soft acidity and moderate alcohol, making it a great wine to pair with a range of dishes. The finest examples are from PDO Santorini where it’s blended with aidani and assyrtiko, or PDO Rhodes.

Daphni

One of the rarest but arguably the most distinctive of all of Greece’s grapes. Daphni means ‘laurel’ (also known as bay leaf in the UK) and once you take a sniff it’s easy to see why! Intensely perfumed with notes of laurel, ginger and dried herbs with a typically soft, rounded palate and moderate alcohol. Brought back from the brink of extinction on the island of Crete, daphni is one of Greece’s true emerging varieties and is supposed to age with grace.

Malagousia

Malagousia is a grape that personifies Greece’s viticultural journey over the last 30 years: from complete unknown (even near extinction) to recognition as not only one of Greece’s finest white grapes, but also the world’s. With its intense and expressive nose of peach, flowers, herbs and hints of bell pepper and full yet always fresh palate, malagousia is a must-try for those looking to explore Greek wines. Grown throughout much of Greece the current fashion is dry malagousia, often aged in oak which it handles well, but malagousia also produces outstanding sweet wines.

Monemvassia

(mo-nem-vassy-ah)

Although lending its name to the Monemvassia-Malvasia PDO, monemvassia the grape is predominantly grown on the Cycladic island of Paros. It’s an integral part of the Paros PDO white wines but can also be blended with the red mandilaria for the PDO red wines. In Monemvassia-Malvasia in Laconia, monemvassia is blended to produce malvasios oenos, a legendary sweet straw wine that graced royal banquets across Europe between the 13th and 19th centuries, a style that’s seeing a resurgence since the PDOs creation in 2010.

Muscat of Alexandria

Robola

Roditis

Thrapsathiri

Vidiano

Red varieties

Agiorgitiko

(ay-your-giti-ko)

Xinomavro

Rare varieties

Kotsifali

Liatiko

Limnio

Limniona

Mandelaria

Mavrodaphne

Mavrotragano

Negoska

Explore our Greek wines

hymiopoulos rather neatly: this is unabashedly low-intervention stuff. Keen to find out more, I managed to exchange a few emails with him. ‘Our philosophy is to use natural, organic vineyard treatments and minimalist winery practices,’ he wrote.

‘The payoff is more than just sustainable agriculture and a healthier environment. It also produces better-tasting wine! We don’t follow protocols: each year is different and the vigneron has to be close to the vines. The balance is the answer and nature respects you if you respect nature. We want to pick only the quantity that each soil can naturally produce (and) never press nature for more.’

Yet again, a Burgundy comparison is tempting, and Freddy Bulmer, our buyer for Greece, made just such a parallel in our new Fine Wine List: ‘the vineyard comes first and the winemaking is more about capturing the terroir in the bottle than trying to exert too much influence.’

Freddy has been able to ship more of Apostolos’ wines this year thanks to the demand and the support shown by members, and as well as the return of his Naoussa rosé, the ‘Jeunes Vignes’ (young vine) red, the remarkable ‘Earth and Sky’ xinomavro and the xinomavro-led ‘Terra Petra’ Rapsani, we’ve been able to add some new single-vineyard arrivals.

Xinomavro Blends from Rapsani

On the slopes of Mount Olympus, the region grows the core red grapes of the Xinomavro blends on rocky soil. Blended wines are typical, with a dominance of Xinomavro and spicy flavors of raspberry, anise, fennel, cherry, and occasionally olive or tomato.

The wine’s tannins build slowly (but surely!) on the palate. If you enjoy Rhône blends, Rapsani is the Rhône of Greece, and you should put it on your list to try.

Mavrotragano, Hatzidakis 2017

£34.00 bottle
A real hidden gem from the beautiful Greek island of Santorini, Mavrotragano makes up only 2% of plantings on the island. This example from Hatzidakis is, although pale in colour, structured and incredibly powerful, with flavours of crushed cherry and strawberries, chocolate orange, incense and sweet cedar spice. Delicious now this will reward patience will last until 2032

In 1996, Konstantina showed to Haridimos the vineyard of her family. This vineyard is located at the village of Pyrgos Kallistis, on the way to the monastery of “Profiti Ilias-Santorini”. It is situated 330 meters above sea level. The vineyard was abandoned for many years, as Konstantina’s parents, George&Aikaterini Chryssou had left the island because of the earthquake in 1956 and had moved to Athens as many locals did at that time. Until 1996, the vineyard remained uncultivated. Haridimos was the first who took the decision to re-cultivate the vineyard and the rest is history. The vineyard was cultivated with Aidani which is an organic grape variety.

When Konstantina and Haridimos visited the vineyard, Haridimos spotted a cave at the end of it. “Over here, we can create a “Kanavaki”, he said. “Kanaves” is the local name for wineries. Thus, a small underground Winery started to shape which was built with patience, persistence, enthusiasm, passion, with “meraki” as we say in Greek and hard work. And the dream came true!

In 1998, the first bottles of wine, vintage of 1997, were released from that new Winery. “Santorini” wine, vintage 1997, from the white grape variety Assyrtiko and “Mavrotragano” wine, vintage 1997, from the Mavrotragano grape variety of Santorini were the first two wines to be produced.

WINE SOCIETY GREEK WINE TASTING – March 2021

NB Criterion wine toursi 2017 £38 – white from Assyrtiko grape

Skitali = passing on of baton to 3 daughters & son, after father’s suicide in 2017. They weren’t going to take over, but now they have.

Very deep golden, classic Santorini. Keep aromas in cold fermentation 12 months stainless steel

Slightly salic pineapple. Big, rich, viscous on palate.

Mavrotragano, Hatzidakis 2016 red £34

Spicy,herbaceous.widely planted grape in Santorini, but only 10-15%.

Dark cherry plum flavours, tannic

Naoussa

Xinomavro Jeunes Vignes, Thymiopoulos 2019 – red

In South. Picked late, modern, cold maceration. Deep colour extraction, juicy fruit.

Sweeter softer tannins. No oak. Drink young.

Tricky grape to grow.

Vigorous, has to be trained back. Affected by rot and mildew. Aromatic intense redsd.

Xinomavro Naoussea, Ktima Foundi 2016

Richer styles in north, Aromatic. Gets better trhough week. Sour cherry, sun dried tomatoes, black olives 13% £14.95

Traditional Xinomavro

Crete
Nomas Assyrtiko, Karavitakis 2019 £11.95

Far west of Crete.

2020 is more floral.

This was an entirely different Assyrtiko, of course not the complexity of the Hatzidakis.

Classic Assyrtiko. Minerality, grippy on teeth, flinty, elegant. Assertive, clean, refreshing, very dry, acidity, fermented in stainless steel, aged on lees for 3 months. High alcohol for a white – 14% –

Plakoura Mandilari, Domaine Lyrarakis 2017 £12.95

Central Crete 13%

Decant.

Single grape variety from single plot

Low yields, some dried grapes, intense, cherry and blackberry 12 months oak

Mediterranean feel to red wines like Italy. Expressive

North mainland near Peloponnese. A very rare grape variety.

Almost extinct until 1970s

Numerous styles.

Famous sweet white

Aromatic like viognier only textural mouth feel.

Nowhere on earth makes wine with the weight of Santorini

Saltiness in feta cheese brought out salinity in wine. Food draws out the wine character.

Roditis – orange wine. Vinified like red.

Leave juice on skins similar textures and influences.

Clay amphorae for 21 days

Tannins like red wine

Apple, apricot, bruised complexity

Transfer to French oak, 6 months.

Very good introduction to orange wine. Whistle clean, super dry.no residual sugar. Slightly cider-y

goes with pork souvlaki & Mediterranean vegetables. Bringing the background flavours of the wine out.

Xinomavro North Thymopoulos.

Acidic an be alcoholic ines,Pale, High tanninsm nightmare to grow, Disease pprone.

Fresh juicy lively young wines

Best selling Greek red wine.

Sundried tomatoes bright acidity, serve lightly cold.

No year is the same.

No oak – concrete, stainless steel – all about the fruit,

Limniona

Top cru cranberries, strawberries, pepper, spice, fruit, middle mainland Greece, near Larissa

Elegant classy

Serve slightly cool. Preserve the fresh aromatics

Influence of oak.

Agiorgitiko (“St. George’s grape”) is a variety native to Nemea that grows mainly in the Peloponnese area, producing a soft, fruity red in many styles. Its sensory attributes are similar to Beaujolais Nouveau but, unlike its French counterpart, the St. George ages well for about five years.

Xinomavro (“sour black”) is the predominant grape variety in Macedonia, centered on the town of Naousa. This variety has great aging potential with a palate reminiscent of tomatoes and olives, and a rich tannic character. It is often compared to Nebbiolo.

The Society’s Greek White 2023

2023 was a fabulous year for roditis, providing opulent stone-fruit while moschofilero provides rose-hip

backing vocals. The result is a more fruit-forward wine with less floral perfume than the 2022 but filled with

peach and grapefruit notes on the refreshing palate.

Dominant Grape Moschofilero

Product Type White Wine Drink Dates 2024 – 2025

Origin Alcohol Level 12.5%

Style 2 – Dry Closure Type Screwcap

Vintage 2023 Price £ 8.95 / Bottle

The Society’s Exhibition Santorini Assyrtiko 2021

‘This was easy to choose as one of my seasonal picks. A Greek island is a dreamy summer thought

wherever you are and whatever the weather, and Santorini wines are a wonderful means of transport to

sunnier climes! Our Exhibition Santorini has the classic citrus, sea-breeze freshness and weight of assyrtiko at a snip of the cost. Partner with some fresh fish or salty anchovies with a slug of olive oil and be transported.` Matthew Horsley, Buyer for Greece

Product Code GR2671 Dominant Grape Assyrtiko

Product Type White Wine Drink Dates 2022 – 2025

Origin Alcohol Level 13%

Style 1 – Bone dry Closure Type Cork, natural

Vintage 2021 Price £ 15.50 / Bottle

Artemis Karamolegos

Santorini is an arid but commandingly beautiful island with a history of vine cultivation and winemaking

that is prehistoric. Its volcanic soils, an mix of basalt, granite, pumice, obsidian and ash laced with metals, silica and oxides, are a legacy of the volcano that famously exploded here in the 16th century BCE, thus creating the islands mesmerising caldera that draws cruise liners like bees to a honey pot. It is on these

often windswept soils that Artemis Karamolegos has established a modern, progressive winery that is

earning plaudits worldwide for its delicious wines, perfect for sipping as you observe the famous Santorini sunsets!

Artemis learned at the side of his grandfather who began growing vines and making wines for his family’s

personal enjoymentin 1952. Artemis took up the reins in 2004, investing in the winery and the vineyards,

and making wines that he could label as PDO (protected designation of origin), the mark of the island’s

best. Around the winery the three hectares of vineyards overlook the Aegean Sea, and Artemis also

manages vineyards from other owners while buying in some grapes from trusted growers.

His own vines are old, with some over 100 years of age, and farmed in the unique style of Santorini, looking

like nothing so much as a crown of thorns (called ‘kouloura’) lying low to the ground in a shallow hollow.

This unique style is formed to protect them from the wind and in a bid to retain whatever moisture they

can. Native assyrtiko, aidani, athiri, mavrotragano, and mandilaria vines are grown, with an average age of

50 years, and conditions mean that yields are automatically low, a prerequisite for high-quality.

Harvesting begins in early August, prompted by the hot, dry conditions. The volcanic soils accentuate

minerality, even salinity, in the fruit, and at the winery they are sorted to select only the best, healthiest

grapes. Talented winemaker Lefteris Anagnostou employs a hands-off winemaking approach to produce a

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Registered as The International Exhibition Co-operative Wine Society Limited. VAT Registration No. GB196 2016 62

range of wines from native varieties that are pure and concentrated, reflecting the terroir beautifully.

Hatzidakis Skitali, Santorini 2021

A staggeringly complex assyrtiko from Hatzidakis, one of the top producers on Santorini. Golden in colour

with aromas of citrus, beeswax and apricot and a full, textured palate bursting with lime-zest and

assyrtiko’s textbook minerality, incredible considering this wine sees no oak. Truly one of the world’s

greatest wines.

Product Code GR2981 Dominant Grape Assyrtiko

Product Type White Wine Drink Dates 2023 – 2029

Origin Alcohol Level 14.5%

Style 2 – Dry Closure Type Cork, diam

Vintage 2021 Price £ 48.00 / Bottle

Producer name: Hatzidakis

The late Haridimos Hatzidakis, who died suddenly in August 2017, was originally from Crete but lived and made wine in a highly individual way on the volcanic island of Santorini (Thera).

He had previously been an winemaker for the major producer Boutari, but from 1996 he began making

wine from his own grapes as well as using bought in fruit, while also leasing four hectares of land that

belong the monks of Patmos and elsewhere to a local nunnery of the prophet Elijah. Totally connected with

the land and the unique conditions on Santorini he cultivated his own vines sustainably, without herbicides,

pesticides or irrigation, the humidity from sea breezes providing just enough moisture with the vines

trained close to the ground in unique bird’s nest shape. Being among his vines was what he loved.

The wines are made in a tiny cave winery just outside Pyrgos, the highest village in Santorini, and a larger

underground cellar, carved from the tufa, under vineyards where he made a number of eccentric red wines

such as mavrotragano, bullseye (voudomato) and Vin Santo. The main wine of the estate, of which 7,000

dozen are made a year, is the Santorini white which must be 90% assyrtiko with a bit of aidani.

Santo Wines Mavrotragano 2021

2021
13.7%

100% Mavrotragano

Drink it now or cellar for up to 15 years. It is recommended to decant it for half an hour.

Located in Santorini and more precisely in the village of Pyrgos, the modern Santo Wines winery, built in 1992, enjoys spectacular views of the caldera. Initially founded in the 1940s as a union of cooperatives, the company is today the largest wine producer on the island with a wide range of local wines made with the utmost respect for local traditions and biodiversity.

The Mavrotragano grapes, an ancient and rare native variety, come from Santorini vineyards located at a maximum altitude of approximately 400 meters, from plants aged between 20 and 60 years, planted on soil of volcanic origin. After fermentation, the finished wine is aged for 12 months in French oak barrique before being bottled without filtration.

The wine, produced in limited quantities, has a bright and lively color with ruby-red tones. The nose is fresh and exuberant with aromas of berries and red fruits, followed by notes of tobacco and vanilla. On the palate, it is rich and generous, round and characterful. It has soft, well-integrated tannins and a long, slightly spicy finish. Leave it in the cellar for a few years or enjoy it now paired with roast lamb.

Alpha Estate Ecosystem Xinomavro Reserve Vieilles Vignes Single Block “Barba Yannis”

Variety Composition:
Xinomavro 100%.

Region / Location / Vineyard:
Amyndeon plateau. Amyndeon viticulture zone. North-western Macedonia. Planted in 1919. Gobelet 100%. Single Block “Barba Yannis”, 3,71 ha, Amyndeon plateau, 40°40’45.88″N, 21°41’35.93″E, at 647 m / 2.128 ft., with north-western exposure, facing mount Voras.

Vinification Method & Ageing:
Destemming, light crushing, cold soak – skin contact, alcoholic fermentation by indigenous flora isolated from the specific block, at gradually increasing temperatures, maintenance of wine “sur lies” for 24 months with regular stirring. 24 months in new Allie – Jupilles French oak casks, medium grain, white toasted and 12 months in bottle before release. No treatment or filtration before bottling.

Tasting Characteristics:
Bright dark ruby color. Complex nose with typical bouquet of sundried tomatoes, smoky black fruits, strawberries, dark cherries, licorice and spices. Full body, with rich fruit depth, blackberries, plums, herbaceous hints and oak on the back. Solid, velvety tannins and long aftertaste with persistent aromas.

Harmony:
Perfect match with juicy red barbecued meats, roasted lamb, spicy sausages, red baked peppers in olive oil, stew rabbit, light spicy full body cheeses.

Best served at 16-18ο C. (60,8-64,4 ο F).

A complex and typical Xinomavro (pronounced Ksee no’ ma vro), showing aromas of smoky black fruits, strawberries, dark cherries, liquorice, sundried tomatoes, and delicate spice. Full bodied and structured on the palate, with a rich depth of fruit, concentrated savoury notes and a touch of oak. The velvety tannins lead through to a persistent and aromatic finish.

Xinomavro Single Vineyard ‘Hedgehog’, Alpha Estate 2019

Amyndeon is a plateau located just west of Naoussa and is one of the three main designated regions for xinomavro in northern Greece. The high-altitude vineyards here are surrounded my lakes and mountains, and the mild climate that results provides a pure and ethereal expression of the grape with fresh cherry and strawberry notes and fine tannins.

Product Code GR2561 Dominant Grape Xinomavro

Product Type Red Wine Drink Dates 2022 – 2026

Origin Alcohol Level 14%

Style Medium-bodied Closure Type Cork, natural

Vintage 2019 Price £ /

Producer name:

Drink it now or cellar for up to 15 years. It is recommended to decant it for half an hour.

Santo Mavrotragano, 2021 £44

Lafazanis Winery Geometria Agiorgitiko

The wine, produced in limited quantities, has a bright and lively colour with ruby-red tones. The nose is fresh and exuberant with aromas of berries and red fruits, followed by notes of tobacco and vanilla. On the palate, it is rich and generous, round and characterful. It has soft, well-integrated tannins and a long, slightly spicy finish. Leave it in the cellar for a few years or enjoy it now paired with roast lamb.

Area: From selected vineyards of Nemea, Corinthia

Altitude: 250 – 400 m

Vinification: 24-hour low-temperature maceration followed by 6-day maceration and fermentation at 18° C.

Sensory characteristics: Bright red colour with purple reflections, inviting aromas of red fruits –cherries and plums, with black pepper notes. Good body with soft and round tannins and an exceptional finish.

Serving suggestions: Goes well with a very wide range of Greek cuisine dishes. At its best when served at 16° C – 18° C.

Alcohol: 12.5%

Douloufakis ‘Dafnios’ Liatiko, 2021 £19.50

Alpha Estate Xinomavro Amyndeon PDO Single Vineyard ‘Hedgehog’, 2021 £23

Santo Mavrotragano, 2021 £44