This tasting for IWFS London Branch of Red Burgundies from the 1980s at the Naval Club, Mayfair, was led by Jeffrey Benson, of wines from his cellar, to see how well they had lasted. We tasted the following:
- A 1988 Volnay from Joseph Drouhin, a consistently highly regarded producer. The good 1988 red burgundies are classic in style, long-lived and keep their fruit well.
- 1987 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Santenots’ Tête de Cuvée – Remoissenet. Tête de Cuvée means top quality wine of the house or grower, which may be made from the first pressings of the grapes. It is a term found in Burgundy, Champagne and Sauternes wines.
- 1987 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Marconnets’ Tête de Cuvée – Remoissenet.
The 1987 red burgundies are light and have matured quickly.
- 1985 Gevrey Chambertin – Doudet Naudin
A small vintage. Some delicious to drink relatively young, others maturing much later.
- 1983 Chambolle Musigny – Chantal Lescure
- 1983 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Toussaints’ Tête de Cuvée – Remoissenet
- 1983 Bourgogne Pinot Noir – Joseph Drouhin.
The weather conditions throughout the 1983 growing season were variable, heavy rain and cold in the spring, hail in certain areas in May and July, sunshine from June through August until more heavy rainfall arrived and then more changeable weather for the harvest. Rot developed in some vineyards. So the wines that could be made from this vintage are mixed, some rich and concentrated, some too tannic, most reached their peak a while ago.
- 1982 Cotes De Nuits Villages – Lucien Boillot
A hot summer and a very large vintage. Many wines were pleasant to drink young, but few have aged well.
We enjoyed this opportunity to evaluate and compare mature fine red burgundies from renowned growers.
Rachel Burnett